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Mobile Enhancement Experts in Milford CT

55 Woodmont Rd., Milford, CT 203-954-0066
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Fuses: To Serve and Protect!

FusesLet’s face it: Accidents happen. Minimizing the collateral damage from an accident is important. When you have a mobile electronics system that includes installing an amplifier in your vehicle, a discussion about fuses or circuit protection should take place before the installation begins. Choosing the right device to ensure your system works as intended and is safe in the event something goes wrong is very important. Let’s talk about fuses.

What is a Fuse?

A fuse is a device that will disconnect a circuit when too much current passes through it. Fuses typically incorporate a small piece of metal with a specific amount of resistance. As current passes through the fuse, the piece of metal heats up. Up to a certain temperature, the circuit remains functional. If the current level increases, the fuse heats up more and will eventually fail, which protects the power source and load.

My Wire Needs a Fuse?

FusesTwo common locations in our audio systems need protection. Any power connection to the battery needs a fuse. Any electronic device connected to the vehicle electrical system should also have a fuse.

The fuse at the battery is there to protect the vehicle in the event of a short circuit. If it is installed incorrectly, the power wire may rub against a sharp object and wear through the jacket. Once the conductor touches the chassis, a short circuit will occur. Left unprotected, the only limiting factors in how much current passes is the internal resistance of the battery, the resistance of the power wire and the resistance of the connection to the chassis. In most cases, hundreds of amps of current will flow – if we don’t have a fuse on the battery.

Imagine a car with a big stereo system. There may be an upgraded AGM battery under the hood and a few huge amplifiers in the trunk. What if the unthinkable happens – the car is involved in an accident, and the chassis shorts to the power wire? Without a fuse on the power wire connection to the battery, both the wire and the battery will heat up very quickly and could easily start a fire.

Fuses in Our Devices

FusesRecently, we experienced an instance where a radio was blowing the 15 amp fuse in its power harness as soon as it was plugged in. Even with all the speakers disconnected, it kept blowing fuses. It turned out there was an improperly soldered terminal on the internal amplifier in the radio. This poorly soldered connection was shorting the power connection to the chassis of the radio and, subsequently, to the ground. The 15 amp fuse in the harness prevented the copper traces on the circuit board from being destroyed. Our technician was able to clean up the solder connection, and we put the radio back into service.

Types of Fuses in Car Audio

More and more new fuses are introduced to automobiles each year as manufacturers strive to reduce weight and packaging sizes. On the aftermarket side, we use three common fuse styles.

AGC and AGU Fuses

FusesAGC and AGU fuses are constructed from four components: a fusible link, a pair of end caps and a glass tube. The manufacturer solders the fusible link to one end cap, then slides the glass tube over the link before soldering on the other end cap. Many radio harnesses and lower-power devices use AGC fuses. For years, the larger-diameter AGU fuses were very popular in amplifier installation kits.

The problem with these fuses is that the quality and reliability of the internal solder connections can affect their performance. We have seen brand-new fuses out of package not work because the solder connection on one cap was incomplete.

Another consideration for AGC and AGU glass fuses is how we connect them to our power wire. In most cases, a terminal is pressed against the end cap using a sprung metal connection. As this connection heats up, it can loosen. For low-current applications, AGC fuses are acceptable. For moderate- to high-current applications, there are better alternatives.

ATC, ATM and Maxi Fuses

FusesThis style of fuse is composed of two components: a plastic housing and a stamped metal piece that includes the electrical connection tabs and current-limiting link. These fuses are compact and easy to install. They eliminate the connection that plagues the glass fuses, but they still suffer from problems when it comes to connecting them to the power wire. In almost all applications, sprung metal tabs are responsible for pressing the tabs of the fuse against the wire terminals. These can fail over time.

A common point of failure is the loop-type under-hood fuse holder that are included with aftermarket lighting kits. These molded holders include two female terminals connected to the input and output wire. After time and many heat cycles, these terminals can loosen, and the resulting resistance will cause the holder to fail. It should be noted that the current required to heat up the connection to the failing point is often less than what is required to blow a fuse.

ANL and Mini-ANL Fuses

FusesIn the mobile electronics industry, ANL and Mini-ANL fuses are the preferred option when it comes to protecting devices from over-current conditions. These fuses are constructed in the same way as an ATC, ATM or maxi fuse, with a single metal plate that is stamped to provide the connection terminals and the fusible link. A plastic housing snaps over or rivets to the device to enclose the link.

Where these fuses differ from the other two styles is in how they are connected to the wiring. A set of large blocks connects to the wire. Most of these blocks use set screws. The fuse is then attached to these blocks with a large-diameter bolt. Your installer can (and should) tighten the bolt to ensure that the electrical connection is solid and secure.

Protect Your Vehicle and Equipment

Whenever you have your installer adds an electrical device to your vehicle, it must be fused. Even a small-diameter wire for an auxiliary USB charge port, a radar detector or LED lighting can cause an impressive amount of damage when overheated. It will not only melt through its jacket, but will melt the wiring around it. Proper circuit protection is cheap insurance against having to call the insurance company. Your local mobile electronics specialist retailer would be more than happy to discuss how and where they fuse the equipment they install.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, Integration, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Product Spotlight: Sony XM-5ES Five-Channel Power Amplifier

Sony XM-5ES

Five-channel car audio amplifiers like the Sony XM-5ES are a great way to upgrade your car stereo system to deliver great sound. Sony has created an amp that produces up to 165 watts of power per channel to the front and rear speakers and 750 watts to the system’s subwoofers. They’ve also crammed this beauty with premium processing technology and integration features to ensure that your music sounds fantastic.

Features of the Sony XM-5ES Five Channel Amplifier

The four main channels of the XM-5ES are rated to produce 100 watts of power when driving 4-ohm loads. The subwoofer channel produces 450 watts into the same impedance. Those power numbers jump to a beefy 165 and 750 watts when driving 2-ohm loads. Your installer can also bridge the front or rear channel pairs so that each can drive a single 4-ohm load with up to 330 watts. This beast can crank out over 1,400 watts of power from a chassis that measures just a hair under 15 by 9 inches and stands just a little over 2.25 inches tall.

While power is fun, genuine car audio enthusiasts know that true sound quality comes from smooth frequency response and excellent distortion performance. Sony states that the main channels have a -3 dB bandwidth of 10 hertz to an impressive 40 kHz, making this amplifier hi-res audio compatible. The subwoofer channel also has great bandwidth with a rating of 10 to 500 hertz. Distortion is specified as less than 0.05%, and the signal-to-noise ratio is -77 dB using the ANSI/CTA-2006-C standard.

Sony XM-5ES
The Sony XM-5ES has the most complete controls of any amp we’ve seen.

The XM-5ES is based on a handsome cast-aluminum heatsink. A compact speed-controlled cooling fan concealed in the back left corner comes to life when the amp is pushed hard. Sony has provided terminal blocks with high-quality set screws for speaker and power wiring. The speaker connections will accept 8-AWG cables, and the power connection is suitable for 0-AWG wire. Given that the amp can produce 1,400 watts of power, you’ll want your installer to use full AWG-spec, all-copper wire to feed this beast.

The amplifier has four pairs of RCA jacks, a connection for the included remote level control, and a switch to select between high and low-voltage input ranges on the left side of the amp. Four 40-amp ATC fuses are on the chassis beside the monster power connections.

Sony XM-5ES
All connections are made along the front edge of the amp to keep the wiring tidy.

Signal Processing and Integration Features

Turning our attention to the top of the amp, we find a removable panel that conceals all the controls and switches your installer will need to complete the installation in almost any vehicle. While the panel is off, the trim piece in the center of the amp that bears the Mobile ES logo can be rotated to suit your installation.

Sony XM-5ES
The logo plate in the center of the XM-5ES can be rotated 180 degrees to align with your installation.

The signal routing and configuration options of the XM-5ES are nearly unmatched, aside from amplifiers that include a well-designed digital signal processor. Aside from being able to use anything from a single pair of RCA terminals to feed all five channels, the amp can be configured to sum the front and rear inputs and also feed that signal to the subwoofer section to add fading abilities. This can also be used to combine speaker-level signals from a factory-installed midrange and tweeter together to produce a full-range channel. The Sony team has done its homework while developing this amplifier.

The front and rear channel pairs include both high- and low-pass crossovers so that a bandpass crossover can be created for a midrange or midbass speaker. There’s a range switch to select between 50 to 500 Hz or 50 to 5 kHz filter ranges. The subwoofer channel has a selectable infrasonic filter that is adjustable from 5 to 50 hertz and a low-pass filter that can be set anywhere from 50 to 500 hertz. The main channel filters are -12 dB/octave, and the subwoofer low-pass filter has a -24 dB/octave slope.

Sony has included remote turn-on detection for use when the RCA jacks are connected to speaker wires from a factory radio. Those inputs will accept 200 millivolts to 8 volts in the low range and 3 to 16 volts in the high range. In most applications that use a factory-installed source unit, the installation won’t need a line output converter.

Sony XM-5ES
The XM-5ES includes a handsomely designed remote level control for the subwoofer channel.

Upgrade Your Car Stereo with Sony Mobile ES

This is one of the most thoughtfully designed five-channels we’ve run across. The features and performance specifications make it a great solution for anyone who wants a premium upgrade solution for their car stereo. Drop by a local authorized Sony Mobile ES retailer today and ask for a demonstration. Follow the Sony Car Audio team on Facebook and check out their website to learn more about their premium car audio upgrade solutions.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, PRODUCTS, RESOURCE LIBRARY Tagged With: Sony Mobile ES

Steering Wheel Audio Control Integration

Steering Wheel Audio ControlWhen you go shopping for a new radio for your car, one of the many questions the product specialist should ask you is whether your existing radio has steering wheel-mounted audio controls. Almost every aftermarket radio has provisions to accept a signal that will give you steering wheel audio control functions like volume, source selection, tracking and power. Here’s how it all works.

Factory Control Functionality

Steering Wheel Audio ControlThere are two common types of steering wheel control interfaces. The first is resistive; the second is data. Systems that use resistors often have two wires connected to the switches. Each switch presents a different resistance value when pressed. The factory radio sees these different resistances as different voltages and the computer in the radio responds appropriately. There are usually two wires so a multitude of switches can have well-separated resistance values to ensure functions will never overlap.

A small computer is built into the steering wheel controls switches in vehicles that use data communication for the steering wheel audio controls. This computer has inputs dedicated to each switch and its function. When you press a switch on the steering wheel, the computer sends a digital communication to the computer in the radio. Often, this communication takes place on the vehicle’s CAN data network.

Connection to Aftermarket Radios

Steering Wheel Audio ControlIn North America, almost every radio is Steering Wheel Remote Control Ready. Being “Ready” means the radio has a connection on the back to accept a serial data communication signal. The communication language used on the radio connection is not the same as that used in the vehicle. Thus, you will require an interface module to make everything work. Companies like iDatalink, Axxess and Pacific Accessory Corporation (known in the industry as PAC) all offer interfaces that can be programmed to understand and translate the information from the vehicle to something that is compatible with your radio.

Steering Wheel Audio Control Installation

Steering Wheel Audio ControlWhen your tech is installing the new radio in your vehicle, he has three tasks to complete to make the steering wheel audio controls work. First, he must wire the controls into your vehicle. In many cases, the installer will use a “harness saver” or “wire harness adapter” to connect a set of bare wires to the factory radio plug for power, illumination and speaker wire connections. This adapter usually includes the steering wheel communication wires from the vehicle.

Once the installer completes the electrical connections, the next step is to program the module to understand the commands from the vehicle. Some interfaces have software built into them to recognize commands from the vehicle automatically.

Another method of programming the interfaces uses a website that will allow the installer to select the year, make, model and trim level of the vehicle, and program the interface to recognize the correct commands.

Finally, the interface has to be programmed to send the correct commands to the new radio. Each brand of radio has a set of dedicated and unique command codes.

Additional Options

Steering Wheel Audio ControlOver the past few years, many vehicle owners have chosen to upgrade their factory radios to add Bluetooth audio streaming and hands-free calling to their vehicle. New cars have telephone control buttons on the steering wheel, but older ones don’t. Several of the interface modules have the ability to send different commands to the aftermarket radio, depending on how long you press and hold the steering wheel buttons. For example, a quick tap on the Volume Down button will, of course, turn the volume of the aftermarket radio down. You can have the button programmed so pressing and holding it for a couple of seconds to tell the radio to answer an incoming Bluetooth phone call.

The list of compatible functions varies by vehicle and the make and model of the aftermarket radio.

Custom Applications

Steering Wheel Audio ControlOne unique feature of the steering wheel control interface is that your installer could build a set of custom controls for you. Let’s say you are building a custom car, and you want to add a nice sound system. In most applications like this, the builder will install the aftermarket radio in the glovebox, under the seat or in the trunk of the vehicle. But how can you control the radio if you cannot reach the controls? Your installer could mount a set of switches in the center console and then program the switches, through an interface module to control the aftermarket radio.

Some installers and fabricators have gotten quite creative with these switch installations. A power mirror adjustment switch, for instance, serves as a great solution for volume and tracking functions.

Your Retailer is Ready to Help

When it is time to install a new radio in your vehicle, drop by your local mobile electronics specialist retailer. They would be happy to show you the latest in car audio source units and explain how they can integrate it into your vehicle.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, Integration, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Does Preamp Voltage Matter?

Preamp VoltageFor almost as long as there have been car audio enthusiasts, they have been adding amplifiers to their vehicles to increase the power available to drive their speakers. More power means we can turn the volume up higher without distortion. When it came to connecting amplifiers to speakers, the first power boosters connected to the speaker wires of the radio. Now, modern head units offer dedicated RCA preamp outputs to make things easier.

Manufacturers specify how much voltage their source units can produce on these preamp outputs. Most radios offer at least 2 volts of signal, but some offer 4 volt, 5 volt or even 8 volts. Does this preamp voltage matter? Does more voltage make your system louder? Read on to find out.

Signal Chain

Preamp VoltageWhen we install an aftermarket radio in your dash and connect it to the amplifier, we have to make at least one adjustment to ensure everything will work properly. We refer to this step as “setting the gains.” This procedure involves matching the output voltage limit of the source unit with power production capabilities of the amplifier to ensure that both achieve maximum output when the volume is cranked all the way up.

Adjusting an amplifier’s sensitivity is, in theory, a simple process. That said, there are many things to take into consideration. How loud is the source material recorded? Does the head unit distort at full volume? Has anyone adjusted the radio’s tone controls or equalizer? Does the amplifier have any tone controls? If any one of these criteria are overlooked, the sensitivity adjustment may not be accurate.

What is the drawback to an improperly configured sensitivity control? If it is set too low, then you cannot get all the power available from the amplifier to your speakers. If the sensitivity control is set too high, then you can easily distort the output of the amplifier. A second side effect of adjusting the sensitivity control too high is that you increase the noise produced by the amplifier. Nobody wants to hear a hiss in the background of their music, so setting things properly is critical.

What Does High Preamp Voltage Do?

Preamp VoltageSome intensive research among several of us “old” car audio enthusiasts revealed that there were even a few twin-shaft cassette receivers with high-voltage preamp outputs. Some sales and marketing folks decided that more voltage meant more volume. In the early ’90s, several head unit manufacturers started marketing their radios as having voltage preamp outputs. If nothing else changed, sure – in theory, more voltage means more output. That said, if you swap from a 2 V source unit to a 4 V, and then readjust the sensitivity control on your amplifier down to compensate for the extra voltage, the maximum output level should stay the same.

If more voltage does not make your system louder, what is the benefit of this extra voltage? The answer is a reduction in gain of the amplifier and, thus, a reduction in potential noise. If your amplifier is set up to produce full power with a 2 volt signal and has a subsequent signal to noise ratio of 85 dB, then it is not unreasonable to expect that the noise would reduce by about 3 dB when we turn the sensitivity down by the same amount.

To the Test

We set up a premium consumer-grade amplifier on the lab test bench. It had an S/N Ratio specification of 89 dB when producing 1 watt of output and connected to a 4 ohm load. This is a pretty good rating these days. We set the amp up to produce 1 volt of output with a 1 kHz sine wave at a reference level for our function generator at -30 dB relative to full signal. We then took a long frequency response measurement.

The next step was to reduce the output signal of the function generator by an arbitrary amount – we chose 6 dB. We readjusted the sensitivity control of the amplifier so the output level was once again 1 volt and took another long frequency response measurement.

The results of the two measurements are shown in Figure 1.

Preamp Voltage
Figure 1, output dropped by 6db.

In Figure 1, you can see the large spike in frequency at 1 kHz on the right side of the screen. We zoomed in to fill the screen with as much information as possible below this frequency. The gold line shows the background noise produced by the amplifier with the sensitivity control at the lower of the two settings. The green line shows the background noise when we increased the sensitivity of the amplifier by 6 dB.

Figure 2 shows the difference in noise level at 100 Hz. Not surprisingly, the difference in noise is just under 6 dB.

Preamp Voltage
Figure 2, just under 6db of noise difference.

Conclusion

When it’s time to go shopping for a new source unit, among the dozens of cool connectivity features, options for display technologies and different brand names, paying attention to specifications is still important. If you are planning to add an amplifier to your mobile electronics system, make sure your source unit can produce at 4 volts of output on the preamps. This extra voltage will allow your installer to reduce both the sensitivity controls on your amplifier and the background noise level of the system.

Visit your local mobile electronics specialist retailer today for more information on which source units have high-voltage preamp outputs.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

Rear Speakers – A Benefit or a Bad Habit?

Rear SpeakersFor decades, automobile manufacturers have installed relatively large rear speakers in their vehicles. The stereotype of a set of 6×9 speakers sitting on the parcel shelf of a Monte Carlo is as “car audio” as it gets. As the industry has evolved, the importance of rear speakers has diminished. Are rear speakers necessary? Do they offer a benefit? Are we just holding on to a bad habit? Read on to explore more about rear speakers.

Why are They So Big?

Rear SpeakersAutomakers used to take advantage of the opportunity to put speakers in the rear of their vehicles because those speakers could be larger that the ones in the front of the vehicle. Consider a third-generation Camaro or Firebird. They had a set of 4×6 speakers on the dash and a set of 6×9 speakers in the rear sides. Likewise, a fourth-generation Monte Carlo had 3-1/2-inch speakers in the dash and 4×10-inch speakers on the skinny little rear deck.

In most cases, a speaker with more cone area will play louder for a given amount of power. Larger speakers are capable of producing more bass. We recently saw a factory audio system with a 9-inch door speaker, and 6x9s in a pickup truck and SUV doors are very common.

What is Our Goal?

Rear SpeakersThe trend in the last decade for both factory and aftermarket car audio systems has been to recreate a live performance as realistically as possible. This shift in design has introduced us to the need for proper speaker placement and the use of larger speakers in the front of the vehicle. The use of digital signal processors to set up crossovers, signal delay and equalization for each speaker location has further improved on our ability to create what is known as a soundstage in our vehicles.

A soundstage refers to a perceived source location for our music. In a perfect world, our music would appear to come from far out in front of us and provide a good sense of width and depth, excellent focus, and realistic ambiance – just like a live performance. Automobile manufacturers have to balance cosmetic design versus optimum speaker placement, and speaker placement often loses the fight.

What is Your Goal?

Rear SpeakersHow do you like to enjoy your music? Do you attend live performances? Do you listen to a two-channel system at home? Do you usually use headphones? Are you into surround sound? Your answers to these questions can help your car audio specialist retailer design a system that will sound the way you want.

If you like live performances and two-channel audio, then it’s most likely that you would enjoy a system with a soundstage that is out on the dash of the vehicle. In this application, rear speakers are not very important, and in most cases, the money saved by not purchasing and installing rear speakers at all will allow you to buy better front speakers.

If you listen to headphones, then you may want the sound from your system to wrap around you evenly. You may enjoy a system that makes you feel as if you are in the middle of the sound. An equal amount of sound will come from in front of you as behind you. In a system like this, using similar or even identical speakers in the front and back can help produce great results.

If you watch a lot of movies in surround sound, then you need to work with your retailer to decide what is right for you. In movies, the side and rear channels are usually reserved for special effects and ambiance. You may want to go without rear speakers in a mobile audio system. Very few sources include surround information, and currently there are no aftermarket surround sound reproduction solutions, although some are coming.

Are You a Purist?

Rear SpeakersIn pure, raw technical terms, you want as few speakers in your system as possible. Additional sources of sound can result in interference patterns called comb filtering. An ideal system would offer full-range left and right signals, and – because we typically can’t use large speakers in our doors – a subwoofer to fill in the bottom few octaves.

The placement of the speakers can have a dramatic effect on the sound of the system. From a perspective of tonal accuracy, having the midrange speakers in the doors works well. This location typically produces a very wide soundstage. A door location does not often result in a soundstage that appears to emanate from far out in front of you. To achieve that, you may need to use a smaller midrange speaker with a tweeter in a dash or A-pillar location.

When possible, try to ensure that tweeters are mounted within 20 degrees of being on-axis to the listening position.

Who’s Back There?

Another consideration for rear speakers is whether you have passengers in the rear of the vehicle. If you have children or friends in the back, then it would serve them well to have speakers to enjoy. Yes, they will be able to hear the dash or front door speakers, but not as clearly as if they had something close by. It would not be unreasonable to design an audio system that allowed you to turn the rear speakers on and off, depending on your needs.

Rear Speakers as Rear Fill

Rear SpeakersFor systems designed with a focus on the front soundstage, rear speakers are often operated at a much lower relative level than the front. Some people call this technique “rear fill.” The intent is to provide a sense of spaciousness to the listening environment. Employing rear fill speakers splits the divide between systems with or without rear speakers. The relative level of these speakers is critical. Too much can start to pull the soundstage rearward.

There is no right or wrong when it comes to a preference for the location of your soundstage. Whatever you enjoy is the right choice. Your local mobile electronics specialist retailer can work with you to design a system that sounds the way you enjoy. Drop in today and ask if they have a demo vehicle that you can audition. That’s a great way to decide what solution is best for you.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Filed Under: ARTICLES, Car Audio, RESOURCE LIBRARY

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