Years ago, when someone wanted to make their car stereo system sound better, they bought a new radio. With the complexity of modern infotainment systems, upgrading your radio isn’t always possible. So, what’s a music enthusiast to do? As it turns out, the radio is the least of your worries – unless, of course, it happens to be broken. Read on to find out more about our tried-and-true OEM audio upgrade path.

The Weakest Link

What is it about factory stereos that enthusiasts don’t like? Ask most of them, and they’ll tell you that the system doesn’t play loudly enough and that it doesn’t produce enough bass. Rather than muck around with expensive source units and complicated integration modules, why not simply address the weak points?

Step 1: Add a Subwoofer

Subwoofers get a bad rap. The stereotype is that they are very large and are only good for making mirrors shake and the trunk lid vibrate. The reality is that a subwoofer is a fundamental component of a truly great-sounding audio system upgrade. Even in a Mustang or Corvette with 8- or 10-inch door speakers, adding a properly designed subwoofer system will result in a massive improvement.

Before you get hung up on losing your storage space to a subwoofer system, there are many options for extremely compact solutions that take up little to no room at all. Several companies offer compact powered woofers that will fit under a seat. These solutions can warm up your sound system nicely.

The next step up in performance would be an enclosure that places a sub in an existing storage area. Many companies offer vehicle-specific solutions that use fiberglass or roto-molded plastic enclosures. Some of these solutions include an amplifier and vehicle-specific wiring that makes the installation quick and easy. These systems typically feature an eight- or 10-inch subwoofer. The result is solid low-frequency extension and great output up to moderately loud listening levels.

If you are searching for the epitome of subwoofer performance, your local mobile enhancement retailer can create an enclosure that is specific to your vehicle and your requirements. From an audiophile-grade single sub in a compact sealed enclosure to something with two or more high-excursion drivers in a large vented cabinet – your choice depends on your expectations. Listen to a few systems and decide what’s right for you.

Step 2: Add an Amplifier

We’ve addressed the bottom few octaves of our system with the subwoofer. The next step is to add an amplifier to the midrange and high-frequency speakers. If your factory stereo doesn’t have an amplifier, then you are likely only getting 18 to 20 watts of real power to each speaker. Even a modestly powered amplifier will provide about three times as much power. With more power, your stereo will sound better at higher volumes. The garbled distortion that plagues most factory stereo systems when you turn up the volume will be gone.

Because most amplifiers include an electronic crossover, your installer can filter out the bass from your smaller speakers. This filtering allows your small speakers to do a much better job of reproducing midrange and high frequencies – both clearer and louder.

I’d Like to Order the Combo, Please

If you know your ultimate goal for your sound system will include a subwoofer and an amplifier for the speakers, you may want to consider buying a five-channel amplifier. These amplifiers include four discrete channels for your front and rear speakers and a high-power channel dedicated to powering a subwoofer. By combining your amplification requirements into a single chassis, your installer will be able to install it faster, and you won’t need any power distribution components.

Step 3: Upgrade Your Speakers

Once you have an amplifier, it’s time to upgrade your speakers. Though there are arguments for a speaker upgrade as an early part of the process, speakers need amplifier power to shine. Connecting a set of components to the little amplifier built into a radio simply doesn’t do them justice.

Premium aftermarket speakers not only provide smoother frequency response and less distortion than OEM speakers, but their increased excursion capabilities will allow them to play louder – but only when they have adequate power.

Choosing a set of speakers can be very difficult. There are thousands of options available from hundreds of manufacturers. Most retailers carry one or two high-end brands, each with a variety of options in each speaker size. While it is often easier to buy well-known brands, many companies put more effort into marketing than they do into developing speakers that sound amazing. We suggest auditioning as many speakers as possible, using the same selection of music each time. After a while, it’ll be easy to hear the difference between a great speaker and one that is marketed well.

Installation Matters

Unlike a new Bluetooth speaker from the local big box store, the performance of your mobile sound system depends significantly on its installation and configuration. Amplifiers require properly sized high-quality wiring. Electrical connections need to be mechanically secure and properly protected. Speaker installation has a dramatic effect on their performance. Solid mounting adapters that are water-resistant are an absolute must. The option to add sound damping material to the doors or foam coupling rings to the front of the speakers is also a sign that the shop you are dealing with cares about the performance of your system.

Amplifiers need proper configuration. Each source has different voltage capabilities. These voltage capabilities determine how the sensitivity controls on your installer will configure your amplifier, and ultimately, how loud the system will play without significant distortion. Crossovers need to be set properly to protect small speakers from damage while still ensuring your system sounds great. Many technicians make the process look easy, but it takes years to learn the art of proficient system configuration.

The Next Steps

Though we’ll save it for a future article, the next step in upgrading your OEM stereo system would be to add a digital signal processor. A properly tuned processor will allow your installer to compensate for speaker placement and reflections and resonances within the vehicle. The result is smooth and natural frequency response and a dramatically improved soundstage with impressive imaging.

Upgrade Your OEM Stereo System Today

If you are tired of distorted sound and wimpy bass, drop by your local mobile enhancement retailer and ask about upgrading your sound system. With a carefully planned upgrade path, you can work towards whatever goal suits your requirements in stages. Each stage will provide an audible and impressive upgrade. With each step, your music will sound more lifelike and realistic. It will truly be a case of having heard your favorite songs for the first time, all over again.
This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

There is no car audio topic more confusing and inconsistent than speaker power ratings. The fact is, the methods developed to test speakers are quite simple and reliable. If the speaker passes the test, print the number.

A long time ago, some unknown manufacturer felt it was important to tell consumers that their speaker would handle more power than a competitor’s product. We are talking about the Lear Jet, Jensen and Muntz days, not five or 10 years ago. Whoever that company was, printed a bigger number on their packaging and told their customers that their speaker was better because of it. Of course, competitors followed suit and countered this slightly bogus claim with an even more ridiculous rating. On and on this goes. We currently have 6×9 speakers that claim to handle 600 watts but have a tiny little 1-inch voice coil. The math simply doesn’t add up.

In this article, we are going to talk about speaker power ratings. We’ll explain what the ratings mean and how they are tested. When you are done reading this article, you’ll never look at a bogus MAXIMUM POWER specification the same way.

What is Power?

Power is a unit of energy that describes how much work is done over a specific period. We car guys know about horsepower and torque, and since you are reading this, you clearly have an interest in audio systems and have heard of the electrical unit of power known as the watt. By definition, 1 watt of power is equivalent to 1 joule of energy delivered over a period of one second. In terms you may be more familiar with, that’s equivalent to the work done in a circuit powered by 1 volt where 1 amp of current is flowing through the load. Exciting, isn’t it?

In our speakers, the power from our amplifier flows through the voice coil. The flow of electrons through the coil creates a magnetic field around the coil. Depending on the polarity (direction) of the current flow, the magnetic field may cause the coil and the attached cone to move forward or backward in the basket. As the signal coming out of our amplifier is alternating current, the speaker responds by moving back and forth with the changes in polarity.

What Happens When We Have Too Much Power?

The electrical power from our amplifier is no different from the electricity that flows through an electric heating element on a stovetop. The heating element has a resistance, usually between 27 and 40 ohms. As we apply the 120v electrical signal from the wall to this coil of wire, work is done. For a 27 ohm coil, fed with 120 volts of electricity, 533 watts of work is produced. This “work” is the generation of heat.

When we send 100 watts of power to a speaker, almost all of that energy is converted to heat. Maybe 2 or 3 percent of that energy from the amp is converted to sound energy. Hopefully, you can see where this is going. When current flows through the voice coil, it gets hot. More current produces more heat. Eventually, the glue that holds the voice coil winding to the former starts to overheat and fail. At this point, the voice coil winding will likely unravel and usually gets jammed in the magnet gap, causing the speaker to stop playing.

As an aside, we could get into an entire discussion about power handling problems caused by excessive cone travel. For the purposes of this article, let’s assume we are operating the speaker within a frequency range where cone excursion is not an issue. We’ll talk about speaker excursion another time.

The Reference for Power Ratings

The current reference for testing automotive loudspeakers is the CEA-2031 standard. This set of test criteria include how and where the speaker under test is mounted and the content of the signal used to test the speaker. It is this audio signal, and how it is used, that is of interest to this article.

The power handling test track is a modified pink noise signal that is bandwidth limited between 40Hz and 10 kHz. The high-frequency content of the signal simulates the spectral content of a distorted bass or midrange signal. That’s right: If you distort a low-frequency signal, it creates harmonics. As such, you will send lots of extra midrange and high-frequency information to your speaker if the amp is clipping.

The CEA-2031 signal is recorded with very specific amplitude specifications. The test track is prefaced by a reference-level sound recording. In order to quantify the power level of the test, the reference signal is played and the amplitude is measured. On the engineering side, power tests are taken at RMS voltage levels. That voltage is converted to watts, based on the minimum impedance of the driver under test. For example, efficiency measurements are taken using voltages of 2 or 2.83 volts, which translate to 1 or 2 watts respectively on a 4-ohm speaker.

How They Test Power Handling

Once the reference level is set, the test tone is played without making adjustments to the playback amplitude. The test track is designed to provide two simultaneous tests. The RMS voltage level of the track tests the speaker’s continuous power handling capabilities. The peak amplitude of the signal simultaneously tests the peak power handling of the speaker with an additional 3dB of input power.

The device under test (speaker) is placed in a jig in a room with controlled environmental conditions. “The loudspeaker is rated for the power that it can withstand for 2 hours without a permanent change in acoustical, mechanical or electrical characteristics greater than 10%,” according to the specification. To achieve a higher rating, the test is to be repeated at a higher power level for the same time after a two-hour cool-down period.

Many companies test their products for longer. A lot of Japanese companies test their speakers for eight to 10 hours. Some premium speaker companies test their speakers for an awe-inspiring 100 hours. That’s right – more than four days playing this modified pink noise track.

There are variations of this test. For subwoofers, mounting the drivers in a sealed enclosure will increase the difficulty of the test dramatically. The air inside the enclosure will get hot and reduce the ability for the subwoofer to cool itself.

Where Do the Big Numbers Come From?

So, how can the marketing guys sleep at night with their insane power rating claims? We mentioned that physical power handling could be a concern. Of course, playing bass into a tweeter is going to result in disaster, quickly. Would playing a single tone for a period of time determine a power handling rating? What if a speaker can handle a 500 Hz tone for a few hours? Is that a power rating? Most certainly. Does it accurately describe the capabilities of the speaker? Not really.

Choosing Speakers for Your Vehicle

So, now that you know how speaker power ratings are created, you can basically ignore them. The process of choosing a speaker should be based on performance, not specifications. Frequency response, efficiency and distortion performance separate good from run-of-the-mill. A speaker rated for 150 watts is not necessarily better than a speaker rated at 125 watts.

If you are buying subwoofers, power handling specs become a little more important. You won’t want to pair up a subwoofer rated for 200 watts to a 1,000-watt amplifier. If you want to keep things safe, match the subwoofer power rating to the amp rating. If you want to guarantee you’ll never blow the sub, buy a speaker that is rated for twice as much power as your amp.

Your local mobile enhancement retailer can help you design an audio system upgrade that sounds amazing, will play at the volumes you want and will last for years.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.